— excerpt written by Odile Bouchard for a 2022 partner’s Portuguese travel blog —
“Olive trees have been cultivated since 5.000 BC, starting in Iran, Syria and Palestine and further spread by the Roman Empire spread across the Mediterranean basin into Portugal, where these drought-, fire-, and decay-resistant trees thrive. The Moors fine-tuned oliviculture in Portugal from the 1700s onwards. The Portuguese word for olive oil, azeite, actually hails from al-zeit, the Arabic word for “olive juice”.
Over centuries, olive oil became an integral part of the Mediterranean diet and economy, considered “liquid gold” as it’s not easy to produce nor cheap to consume and was cherished and traded as a source of nutrition, medicine and even fuel for lighting in the mid-1500s. Today, Portuguese consume an annual average of 8 liters of olive oil per person.
Italians and Spanish used to purchase and resell Portuguese olive oil as their own, hence its lack of an international reputation. Portuguese olive oil production also crashed in the 1960s with the introduction of margarine, a cheaper and allegedly healthier fat. When Portugal joined the EU in 1986, the government further offered farmers subsidies to destroy unprofitable olive groves throughout Portugal to make better agricultural use of the land.
In the early 2000s, piggybacking on quality olive oil’s growing international reputation as a “healthy food” and even a luxury good, Portuguese government officials and businessmen started to invest in the production and promotion of their national olive oil, an icon of Portuguese culture and gastronomy, for a price closer to what it’s worth and what could make them money (although Portuguese olive oil is still super affordable!) Focus turned to the remaining olive trees that were planted on Douro Valley’s stone-wall terraces to replace phylloxera ravaged vineyards in the late 1800s, and in Southern Portugal to support the 1900s sardine canning industry boom.
Today, Portugal’s six olive oil DOPs (Protected Designation of Origin) win gold medals at international competitions and adorn Michelin haute-cuisine and, since 2016, Portugal has been the world’s 8th largest quality olive oil producer - Portuguese olive oil is finally receiving the recognition it deserves.”
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