A LBV With an Extraordinary Charm

La Presse - Montreal, November 9, 2001, Jacques Benoit

Some wines are irresistible, with an extraordinary charm... and catch our attention.

In my opinion, this is what the Late Bottled Vintage 97 Quinta do Tedo is about. I had a chance to taste it recently with its founder and proprietor Vincent Bouchard, the SAQ will make 500 cases available for sale within the next two weeks. French, residing in the United States (he represents several cooperages), this man has been in the wine industry all his life, he is the son of Joseph Bouchard, co-president of the Burgundy wine merchant Bouchard Père et Fils. In 1992, after a visit in 1989, in the Douro Valley (the Porto area), he purchased Quinta do Tedo, an estate with 24 hectares, 14 hectares of vineyards.

To produce his wines, he exclusively uses the harvest from his own vineyard, which is unusual in the Douro. Finally, similar to what is practiced in Bordeaux, Vincent Bouchard created a second label Don Tedo to sell the wines that do not meet his quality standards. As Vincent states: "Our main strategy is to keep as much fruit as possible".

We have to recognize that he reached his goal with his 1997 LBV Quinta do Tedo which is an exceptional unfiltered LBV. Less concentrated than other LBV that are currently available, it has a shine, an exceptional authentic fruit quality as much in the nose than in the mouth. And with more time, the fruit expresses itself and develops even more. Same charm in the palate, with beautiful pure and clean characteristics and a pleasing elegance. What a delight! ***(*) Drink in 4-5 years.

Tasted right after the LBV 97 Quinta do Tedo was the Vintage 97 Quinta do Tedo which is somehow is big-brother. A little bit more colorful without being opaque, it has everything mentioned from the previous wine with more offering. The bouquet might be a little close at the beginning to then open slowly, just like a flower would, to reveal some exquisite aromas of perfect purity. Then again, what a delight for the smell senses! The mouth follows, tight and dense, but subtle with the same exquisite aromas. Some 97 Vintages are more concentrated, but in my opinion less are of this excellence. A classic wine. ****(*) Drink in easily 7-8 years or twice as much.

To follow was the Vintage 99 Don Tedo, even denser than the 97 Vintage, with a magnificent bouquet and more ample than the 97's, with similar aroma qualities and a big, ample and opulent mouth not as close as the 97's which is a bigger wine. However this wine is a great wine as well and should only retail for $45 if the SAQ orders it. **** Drink in at least 5-7 years.