Chateau de Gilly

Dinner with Chef Michel Smolarek, June 27, 2002

Tasting notes and menu from a Soirée Œnologique, dinner paired with Quinta do Tedo Portos at Chateau de Gilly by Michel Smolarek. Vincent Bouchard and Kay Steffey Bouchard worked with Chef Michel Smolarek to pair their highly rated Portos with Michel's famous cooking. Recipes to follow.

The Portos that were tasted:

• Quinta do Tedo Ruby Finest Reserve
• Quinta do Tedo Vintage 1997
• Quinta do Tedo Vintage 1999
• Quinta do Tedo L.B.V. (Late Bottle Vintage) 1994
• Quinta do Tedo L.B.V (Late Bottle Vintage) 1997

The Menu:

• Flaked Codfish with Mint Oil & Avocado Mousseline
• Grilled Fillet of Red Mullet Stuffed with Pimientos, "Del Piquillos" & Sweet Pepper Sauce
• Monsieur Bernard's Squab with Port & Apples Reinette
• Assorted Cheeses with Artisan Breads
• Mixed Berries with Chocolate Cookies

Quinta do Tedo Porto Tasting Notes

Quinta do Tedo Ruby Finest Reserve:

Cherry-colored ruby with bluish contours at the rim, and a lovely density.

Expansive nose, seductive aroma of blackberry and blueberry with hints of dark chocolate developing. Lovely, fragrant purity with overall finesse.

Soft, mild, velvety taste with a reticent sweetness which is fruity and well-balanced.

The tannins are mellow and exhibit a remarkable finesse. Possessing a good persistency, this wine is ready to enjoy (not to be decanted), but can also be kept 4 or 5 years. Serve at a temperature of 59ºF. to 61º F. (15ºC. to 16ºC.) in order to appreciate the pureness of the fruit.

Quinta do Tedo Vintage 1997:

Presents a superb garnet-red color with lovely violet highlights.

The nose is subtle and complex. A mature fruitiness with aromas of blackberry and black cherry. Hints of sweet spice.

Initially, a full, round taste with a silky texture, and a well-proportioned sweetness. The fruit persists with pleasant tannins which are mellow and rich. This vintage is ready to drink. Open the bottle 5 hours before serving and enjoy at a temperature of 63ºF. (17ºC.)

Quinta do Tedo Vintage 1999:

An opaque umber and garnet-red color with violet highlights.

The intense nose expresses itself through a lovely ripeness of fruit redolent with black cherry and blueberry with hints of licorice and spice. A pleasant woody flavor emphasizes the pureness of the fruit.

Once on the palate, the components of this port assert themselves full strength.

A compact texture in the middle of the mouth with fine tannins. The ensemble must be allowed to age. This wine is intended to be kept for 15 to 20 years. Decant 2 hours before serving at 61ºF. (16ºC.)

Quinta do Tedo L.B.V. (Late Bottle Vintage) 1994:

Presents a lovely dark color with dark brown highlights.

A nose that is expansive, intense, spicy and breathes a ripe fruitiness of plum and cherry. The suggestions of brown sugar announce an aromatic sweetness.

The round, smooth, and generous taste possesses fine tannins, a result of its maturity. The texture is balanced with flavors of cherry and chocolate. The finish proves pleasantly long-lasting.

A gratifying wine to be savored now, served at 61ºF. (16ºC.)

Quinta do Tedo L.B.V (Late Bottle Vintage) 1997:

The color has a dense garnet-red hue with violet highlights.

The nose reveals a great pureness of dark fruits, with scents of blackberry and blueberry.

The full, clean taste is concentrated, with lovely, tenacious tannins. A subtle, fruity sweetness in the middle of the mouth. Be patient, this vintage needs to age. A lovely wine to keep, served decanted at 63ºF. (17ºC.)

Recipes to Match Quinta do Tedo Portos,
Developed by Michel Smolarek at Chateau de Gilly

Flaked Codfish with Mint Oil & Avocado Mousseline

1. Soak the cod for 24 hours.
2. Poach the cod for 10 minutes in a little bouillon or for 5 minutes in a steamer.
3. Flake and allow to cool.
4. Blend the pulp of the avocado, add the juice of one lemon, salt and pepper and pass through a strainer.
5. Cook the bell peppers on coarse salt in a 180º C. (350ºF.) oven for 15 minutes. Peel, rinse and split in half.
6. Cut in small cubes and combine the yellow and red peppers.
7. Mix the juice of the second lemon with the Get 27 and the mint oil, and salt and pepper.
8. Mix in the leaves of the chervil and dill.

Presentation: In the center of the dish, place the avocado mousseline, cover with the flaked cod, sprinkle the pepper cubes on top. Dress with the mint vinaigrette and top with the mixture of seasoned herbs.

Grilled Fillet of Red Mullet Stuffed with Pimientos, "Del Piquillos" & Sweet Pepper Sauce

1. Chop the shallots, cut the chorizo in small cubes.
2. Boil the fish stock with the saffron.
3. Simmer the shallots and the chorizo, add the rice, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the fish stock-saffron mixture and cook in the oven for 20 minutes at 180º C (350 F). Let cool.
4. Cut the peppers into pieces, simmer lightly in the olive oil. Add the cream and cook 10 minutes. Mix and strain, then season.
5. Stuff the pimentos with the rice and reheat in the oven.
6. Grill the fillets on the skin side.

Presentation: Place the Piquillos on the top of the dish and fan the fillets out on the bottom of the dish. Dress with the sweet pepper sauce.

Monsieur Bernard's Squab with Port & Apples Reinette

1. 4 croûtons made with good quality bread: Saute 50 g. (1.7 oz.) of squab liver + 30 g. (1 oz.) of lard + 4 chopped shallots, flambé with Calvados, season, mix and spread on the 4 croûtons.
2. Prepare the dough. Combine the 2 flours, add a pinch of salt. Beat the egg lightly and add it. Add 30 cl. (10 oz.) of warm water and mix. Set the dough aside for 45 minutes. Shape into cakes 10 to 12 cm. in diameter and cook in butter in a frying pan .
3. De-bone the squabs. Remove the skin from the fillets. Set aside the thigh meat for the stuffing. Make a stock with the carcass. Add the garnish and the poultry bouillon.
   Put the pork, veal and thigh meat through a fine grinder. Add the egg, Port, and crème fraîche and reserve.
   Dry the cabbage leaves well. Rinse the casing and spread it.
4. Fry the cutlets of foie gras for 1 minute on each side. Spread the stuffing on the squab fillets, surround with a cabbage leaf, and add the casing.
5. Brown in a shallow frying pan. Cook 15 minutes in a hot oven and baste.
6. Cut the apples in quarters and remove seeds. Keep the skin. Saute in butter. Cut the blood sausage in rounds. Use 3 or 4 per person, sauté, and season with a little ground red pepper.
7. Lightly toast the buckwheat seeds.
8. For the sauce, reduce the Port, add the stock from the squab, reduce to a glaze and whisk in the butter.
9. ENJOY!